Tuesday, September 09, 2008
ICE resin and casting fun
I played around with the new ICE resin we just got in from Susan Lenart Kazmer. I love this stuff, it is so crystal clear and easy to use. It even washes off your hands easily. I made some molds using a two-part silicone molding compound and molded a tiny baby doll and some other objects. I tried coloring the resin with some pigments, too, and was pleased with the way the pigments mixed in so smoothly.
The two bezels are also from Susan Lenart Kazmer. I filled them with watch parts.
Right now I have some leaves drying and will try coating them with resin...mmm...I think I will pretty much resinate anything that stands still!
Look for some tutorials on how to use resin with hollow forms and for casting later this week. The ICE resin is available at Panopolie and Ornamentea today and will be at Ornamentea.com later this week. The bezels are coming to both stores by the end of the week and on line next week. I gotta go look for a tiny plastic deer to cast, I have an idea for some earrings.
Labels:
jewelry making,
new items
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I'm curious, what kind of pigments did you use? I just got the ICE resin from Ornamentea but I don't know what kind of pigment or tints will work, although it does mention that oil based pigments work best.
ReplyDeleteI am chomping at the bit to try resin! Love your blog...came over from Amber's
ReplyDeleteTerisa
Love the ice resin doll. This could be an idea for my Comfort Doll project???? Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeletePat
What is the best way to pour the mixed resin into a small bezel setting? Can I put it into a squeeze bottle to pour it in or just try to carefully pour it from the cup?
ReplyDeleteWhere is the best place to buy the silicone that you made the mold out of? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWe have this mold compound at our stores...it's not up on the site but really should be. You can call Ornamentea at 919 - 834 - 6260 and we'll ship it to you...
ReplyDeleteOh, and we WILL put it up on the site...;-)
ReplyDeleteI have been making resin pendants for about 6 months now - can I use the same molds that I have been using for the casting epoxy?
ReplyDeleteThanks!!
Hi,
ReplyDeleteCan anyone please give me some tips and pointers as to the best way to apply the ice resin to the tops of altered art game pieces with pictures on top, in order to achieve professional looking results? Do pictures on heaiver paper or photo paper do better and does the ink matter as far as bleeding? I have an order for a local business to do their logo on game pieces if I can perfect this. I am relatively new to this technique. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Eileen-
ReplyDeletehere are my tips:
1. test your paper- ink jet paper may run, matte finish photos are often okay, color photocopies from a professional copier do well
2. apply the paper with a thin coating of ice under and on top of the image, let dry 24 hours, do not touch when dry
3. coat with a thick coat of ice resin and dome it up slowly until you are happy with the thickness, allow to dry 24 hours
4. always, test, test, test!
5. humidity matters, if it's humid let the ice dry for much longer time, resist the urge to touch the top until it's totally dry!
6. measure carefully!
Good luck, I need to put a step-by-step tutorial up about this...you are reminding me to get to work!
I just got some Ice Resin and been experimenting with paper and also Japanese kimono fabric which have turned out quite nice. It needs a bit of experimenting though as I have definitely made some mistakes. Not adding some sealer to the white paper for example did make it look a bit grey which I didn't want it to be.
ReplyDeletecan anyone tell me what is the best to seal paper before applying resin
ReplyDeleteJayne-I like to seal paper with a small bit of the resin you are going to use in the final project. I apply it with a small brush in a thin layer and allow it to dry for 24 hours.
ReplyDeleteGood luck!
Cynthia
I am glueing different types of paper like magazine, book pages, scrap book paper, cards to plastic poker chips with mod podge. Some of the paper bubbled, some of the thicker paper is pulling up on the edges. Is there a better product to use? I bought some ice resin to coat the papers, none of them are photo copies, can I apply right to the paper or does it need to be sealed? Any tips on what to use to apply the resin to the paper?
ReplyDeleteAmy-
ReplyDeleteTry using the ICE to attach the paper to the poker chips instead of the Mod Podge. I think the water and casein (milk-based glue) in the M-P can cause some papers to bubble very easily.
I have also had great success using Diamond Glaze to attach papers and fabrics to items. It can also be used as the final glaze!
Oh, and thicker papers often do pull a bit. You can seal the edges to stop this sometimes but often I prefer to use thinner papers.
Cynthia
I wonder if anyone has experience or advice regarding repairing antique glass bottles with ice resin. There are a handful of specialists who do this, usually with bottles in the $2000-5000 price range, and they are both very secretive about their process and charge from $50 to 500 dollars. The most common repair needs are lip chips, from minor to extensive.
ReplyDeleteThe issues we find with amateur attempts range from severe discoloration over time (yellowing mostly) to color mismatches, shrinkage and general poor detail work. That is why the ice resin "never yellows" statement is appealing.
I'd definitely refer you to Susan Lenart Kazmer, the developer of ICE Resin. http://www.susanlenartkazmer.net/
ReplyDeleteI would like to paint or fill in some filigrees with coloured resin...like your filigree at the top with the purple in the centre...is there any tutes or books that can tell me how to???
ReplyDeletePlease everyone, use proper gloves and appropriate respirator when using any 2-part resin. The hardeners contain phenols, yes, even Ice Resin, which should never come into contact with bare skin.
ReplyDeleteIf you notice, even the IR site (in 2012, 4 years after this post) now only claims that Ice Resin is non-toxic... when cured (dried).